Black Dike

About a month ago, Ethan and I started planning for a Katahdin trip. Our permit application to go climb Cilley Barber was just approved by Baxter State Park and we leave on Sunday. To prep for the climb, we spent 2 days up in the Whites this week to get on some more vertical ice.

We spent Wednesday at Flume Gorge to top rope some steep ice. We had the pleasure of having the place to ourselves until around 1 or 2pm when a small student group from the White Mountain School came with some guides. Lucky kids, it’s part of their gym class! They come up every Tuesday Wednesday.


After some dinner in Lincoln, we parked the car back at the Flume parking lot and passed out in our sleeping bags. Got down to 10F and with the zero bag, I still got cold around 3am. I need to fix that.

This morning (Thursday), we woke up at 5am and got breakfast back in Lincoln before parking at Cannon to go climb the Black Dike. We started at 7:30. Car said 13F but as the sun came up, it started to warm up slowly. I’m awestruck every time I enter the talus field as the sun comes up over Franconia Ridge and hits the cliff.

entering the darkness

We suited up in the sun, it would be the last of it until the top.


I really don’t have many good pictures on this climb, as soon as we roped up we focused on the climbing. Pitch 2 has some amazing potential for good shots, it’s just such a cool pitch, but the belay is up and set back so you can’t see anything. Regardless, here’s Ethan finishing up on pitch 2.


We topped out at 1pm and with so much time left, we decided to bushwhack our way to the trail that would lead to the summit of Cannon Mountain. About an hour later we were there, took our summit selfie and ran back to the car by 3:30pm. After a coffee, 2 donuts, and some Five Guys, we made it back to town just in time to go rent some equipment for Kathadin at Mitoc.

View of Franconia Ridge from summit of Cannon




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